There’s no doubt about it: on the city’s dining scene, scuzzy is the new chic. You only need to glance at the queues snaking out of no reservations burger ‘n’ booze joint Meat Liquor, or gawp at the indignantly skewered whole chickens at Tramshed (where the vegetarian option is hunger) to realise that Londoners are done with obsessively buffed cutlery – we want our dinners big, greasy and uncomplicated. With some mayo for dipping, if you’ve got it.
Nudging the trend towards its inevitable tipping point is Coins: a one-man street-food entrepreneur (aka mr Hot Breath Karaoke) who, over the last few weeks, has been popping up across east London and serving deep-fried treats from his brilliantly shit shopping trolley kitchen. We spotted him last weekend in the fittingly grubby smoking bit out the back of The Haggerston pub on Kingsland Road, where American high school canteen fare (if you don’t know what tater tots and corndogs are, go to Google Images and brace yourself) came served up alongside a fiercely competitive Freestyle Tape Measure Invitational – ‘[an] exciting new sport [which] involves extending a Stanley tape measure vertically into the air as far as it can go before it buckles over on itself.’ Fancy yourself some beige snacks and physically undemanding sporting action? Keep an eye on Coins’ blog to find out where he’ll be rolling his trolley to next. David Clack
For info, see coinsjunkyardsnackbar.tumblr.com.