A game I’ve been playing a lot lately is ‘menu autopsy’. You go into a restaurant lit by 40-watt filament bulbs, order from a barely-legible menu, then work out what the dishes are when they arrive all at once. Usually, you can make a good guess – even though some restaurants resemble Dans le Noir, the pitch-black dining experience which employs blind waiters to serve the tables. But at The Manor, I doubt that many diners will be able to recognise everything on their plates, regardless of the illumination, as ingredients are burnt, fermented, and reconstructed like something out of ‘CSI’. Despite this, The Manor in Clapham breezed five stars out of five.
By Guy Dimond