Sit by my side, liebchen, and I’ll tell you the story of la nouvelle cuisine, the revolution in French cooking that began in the 1960s and snuffed it some time in the 1980s. The nature of the beast: rejecting heavy saucing and overly elaborate cooking techniques in favour of lightness, freshness of ingredients, and careful (often fanatically artful) presentation. Cause of death: a tendency towards lightening things so much that a meal might consist of five dishes, one mouthful in each, which cost at least £50 a head (before drink) in today’s money. In other words, customers realised they were sick of dropping a tonne of money on food that left them craving pizza for dessert.
But some ideas are just too bad to die away completely. And if the idea involves persuading rich people to part with an Everest of money in exchange for a Biggin Hill of food, where else to pitch your tent but Holland Park? Flat Three is a mix of Scandinavian, Japanese and Korean influences, artistically presented in nouvelle cuisine portions. And here at this discreet neighbourhood restaurant, the bill for two will easily top £150. Perfect if you’re an oligarch and your kitchen staff have their monthly night off.
But what did we think of it? And do they really call that a portion? Read on in our full Flat Three review.